Pencil Skirt Construction Part 1 includes:
- Sewing the darts
- Installation of the Invisible Zipper
- Sewing the side seams
Step 1: Sewing the Darts
- Make a small cut on your fabric to mark the dart notches.
- Awl punch your fabric on the dart mark (1/2″ above the vanishing point ). You can also use tailor’s tacks.
- RST (right sides together) fold the dart, finger press. and pin in place
- Stitch from the notches to the vanishing point in both the skirt front and skirt back.
- DO NOT backstitch – use a short stitch length (0.5 to 1) in the last few stitches.
- For the front darts press the darts to the side seams to avoid any bulk in the belly area,
- For the back darts – press the darts to the center back.
Step 2: Installing the Invisible Zipper
- Invisible Zipper
- Invisible Zipper Presser Foot
- Matching Thread
Invisible or Concealed Zippers are different from the regular zippers. The coil in the invisible zippers are hidden and once it sewn in your garment, you cannot see the zipper from the outside of the garment.
Learning how to install an invisible zipper takes practice, but it is not difficult.
1. Use a zipper at least 2″ longer than needed.
2. Fuse a strip of interfacing in the zipper area. The zipper is usually in a stress area of the garment and interfacing will give it extra strength.
3. Finish the edges of the back seam (you can use your serger or a zig zag stitch). You’ll need at least 1/2″ seam allowance to install your invisible zipper. The pattern seam allowance for the back seam is 1″.
It is easier to finish the edges before installing the zipper
4. Press the seam where your zipper will be installed. You’ll use the fold line as a guidance to align the invisible zipper.
5. Place the wrong side of your invisible zipper on the right side of your garment. Align the coil with the pressed edge of the seam allowance. Pin, baste, or glue your invisible zipper to hold it in place.
Make sure the zipper is on the seam allowance
6. Sew your zipper very close to the coil using your Invisible Zipper Presser Foot. You can also use a regular zipper foot.
To have a tight finish you’ll have to roll your zipper coil and stitch on the hidden fold line
To avoid zipping problems, DO NOT stitch over your zipper coil
7. Repeat on the other side of the zipper. Make sure that the top edges are aligned and that your zipper is not twisted.
8. Fold the fabric right sides together, move your zipper out of the way and stitch the seam.
This video shows you how to sew an invisible zipper:
Step 3: Sewing the Side Seams
- Match the side notches and sew the side seams right sides together.
- Press the seams to the back.
- Serge or zigzag the seam allowances.
Note:The skirt front should be larger than the skirt back
Next, we install the facing and sew the back vent with a mitered hem.
If you’re sewing along, I’d love to see and share your pencil skirts! Please share if you’d like, by tagging me on Instagram (@myhandmadespace) or on Twitter (@MyHandmadeSpace). You can use the hashtags #mhspatterns and #mhspencilskirt. If you are not on either of those, you could always email pics to me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Join our MHS Sewing Facebook Group and share pictures of your skirt progress. You can also ask questions! we all like to help each other.
If you would like to participate or follow along, please complete the form below!