The Ruby Dress Bodice Constructions includes:
- Sewing the darts
- Sewing the shoulder seams
- Sewing the side seams
- Lining the bodice
Step 1: Sewing the Front Darts
- RST (right sides together), pin the front dart in place. For accuracy, use tailor’s chalk to mark the dart using 5/8″ seam allowance.
- Stitch on the marking
- Start from the waist, backstitch to secure. DO NOT backstitch on the vanishing point. To secure, use a short stitch length (0.5 to 1) in the last few stitches.
- Press the seam allowance towards the side seams.
- A tailor’s ham is useful to press the bust shape.
This is how your front bodice should look after sewing the front darts.
Step 2: Sewing the Back Darts
- Fold the back darts matching the dart notches and secure with a pin. Mark the darts using tailors chalk and stitch using 5/8″ seam allowance.
- Repeat for the other side making sure you have two opposite sides to form the V neck on the back. Press the darts to the center back.
This is how the back bodice pieces should look like after sewing the darts.
Step 3: Sewing the Shoulder Seams
- Place the Back bodice pieces on the front bodice pieces RST matching the shoulder. Stitch the shoulder seams and finish the seam allowance (I used my serger, but you can use a zig zag stitch)
- Press the seams to the back.
Note: Do not sew the side seams yet.
Step 3: Repeat steps 1-2 for the lining.
- Follow the same steps for the lining, but press the darts and shoulder seams to the opposite direction. (when attaching the lining, you want to nest the seams)
Step 4: Attaching the lining
- Place the fashion fabric and lining fabric RST matching the shoulders. Pin in place around the neck (front and back including the V neck).
- Nest the seams to avoid bulk (place the seams on opposite directions)
- Stitch around the neck using 5/8″ seam allowance
- Press the seam open using a Point presser clapper (this will help to press the neck)
- Use a pinking shears to trim your seam allowance to half (around 1/4″)
- topstitch 1/8″ from the edge, on the lining side and through the seam allowance to keep the lining in place and press.
Step 5: Attaching the lining to the armholes
- RST, Stitch the armhole using 5/8″ seam allowance Nest the shoulder seams to avoid bulk (place the seams on opposite directions)
- Use a pinking sheer to trim your seam allowance to half (around 1/4″)
- turn the bodice Right side out – inserting the back bodice through the shoulder and press.
Step 6: Sewing the Side Seams
- Match the sides on the lining RST and on the fashion fabric RST. Match the underarm seam nesting the seams.
- Stitch using 5/8″ seam allowance . Trim the underarm seams and Press.
- Repeat on the other side
This is how the bodice should look like after stitching the side seams:
Now take a picture of your bodice and post it in our MHS Sewing Facebook Group.
Next, we attach the circle skirt to the bodice.
If you are sharing pictures on Twitter or Instagram, please use hashtag #mhsrubydress. If you are not on either of those, you could always email pics to me at firstname.lastname@example.org.