Pencil Skirts are very narrow straight skirts; they vary in length and depending on the fabric you choose they can be very casual or very sophisticated.
In this Pencil Skirt Tutorial you’ll find examples of different pencil skirt length and styles, how to draft the pattern using a skirt sloper, and how to sew it.
If you want to sew a pencil skirt, join our Pencil Skirt Sew Along. You’ll find the subscription box at the end of this post!
Pencil Skirt Examples and Style Ideas:
Where to begin? the pencil skirts are so practical that you can wear them many different ways.
If you want a short skirt you can use stripes or printed fabrics. Here are some examples:
You can embellish your mini skirt with trims, fringe, or even your fabric salvage edge. This is an example of an embellished mini skirt that looks youthful and modern.
If you are looking for a work appropriate look, the pencil skirts can be worn above the Knee, at the knee, and they are also lovely (and sexy) below the knee.
Use solid colors – neutral or colorful – any color looks good!
Use stripes, and experiment with the stripes direction – you can get amazing results!
Floral Fabrics are not my favorite, but pencil skirts also look great in them.
You can also layer lace over your pencil skirt – sew a short skirt and layer it with a longer lace skirt! It looks very pretty!
Pencil Skirt Tutorial: Drafting the Pattern
1. Trace your Skirt Sloper – If you don’t have a skirt sloper yet, you can make one following this Skirt Sloper tutorial.
2. Adjust the length of your skirt to your desired length.
3. Come in 1″ for short skirts, 2″ for longer skirts from the base and blend to the Low Hip.
4. Add seam allowances (I like to use 1/2″) and add 1 1/4″ for the hem.
5. Repeat the same process in both the front and back pattern pieces.
6. In the Center Back add a slit 5″ tall x 1 1/4″ wide (the same width of your hem so you can sew a mitered hem). Slit top is in a 45 degree angle.
7. True up the hem, add notches and grainline. If you use a woven fabric, this skirt can be cut on the cross-grain or on the bias.
8. Draw a facing by tracing the top of the pencil skirt pattern in both the front and back – it should be about 4″ long.
This is how your pencil skirt pattern should look like:
- Add interfacing to the slit, zipper area, facing, and hem.
- Sew the darts.
- Sew an invisible zipper. You can find a tutorial (with video) in how to install an invisible zipper in the Colette blog.
- Sew the side seams
- Sew and top stitch the facing. You can find a nice illustrated tutorial in The Sewing Divas sewing, design, and fashion blog.
- Add lining (optional) – not necessary but it would add quality to your skirt. You can find a great tutorial with couture techniques in the BCN Unique blog.
- Press the hem 1 1/4″ and sew the slit with a mitered corner. You can find an illustrated tutorial in how to sew a mitered hem in the Sew4home blog.
Use medium weight fabrics: twill, cotton, denim, linen, leather, lace – the options are unlimited!
I hope you are ready to sew a few pencil skirts! please share your creations in our MHS Facebook Sewing Group! we all want to see what you are making! and please share any free patterns in the group or in the comments below.
This Craftsy Class is a great resource to learn how to make a skirt sloper and how to draft some basic skirts including pencil skirts. If you are a beginner, this is an excellent class for you.
Patternmaking Basics: The Skirt Sloper
I invite you to check my Pinterest Board where I pin the pencil skirts that I like!
If you wand to join our Pencil Skirt Sew Along, please complete the subscription form below!